About Lyon, France

Lyon: The City & Traveling Around France

The city of Lyon, formerly called Lugdunum, dates back to Roman times. With a population of some 1,200,000 inhabitants, Lyon is the capital of the Rhônes –Alpes region. Lyon has retained much of its historic charm, while simultaneously modernizing. Today it is the second largest city in France, after Paris.

Lyon is located on the banks of the rivers Le Rhône and La Saône, and is surrounded by hills: Fourvière with its basilica called “The praying hill” and La Croix Rousse called “The working hill” with its silk factories; each offers beautiful views of the city. In the valley, the Old Renaissance quarter of Vieux-Lyon hides its Saint-Jean cathedral and picturesque streets. Lyon was the capital of the silk industry in Renaissance France. The economic boom, fueled in part by the immigration of wealthy Italian merchant families, brought with it a cultural rebirth which is still evident today in the architecture of the neighborhood.

Lyon is an inviting city in which to take a stroll along the parks (among the biggest Parc de la Tête d ‘Or), rivers banks, covered walkways (traboules), and art galleries. The city, known for its gastronomy, offers a wide variety of restaurants: under the name of bouchons lyonnais and is famous for its Beaujolais wine and delicious chocolates from Berachon and Voisin confiseurs.

The basilica:


Local & Train Transportation

Some of the host families are some distance from campus. Fortunately, getting around Lyon is very easy. You will find a transportation office located at each bus station and at major metro stops. A plan de poche (pocket map) is available at the Information Center, Syndicat d’Initiative or any TCL branch. Tickets are sold in packets of 10 and are valid for 1 hour in one direction on the whole network of the city transportation, buses and metro connection included. Ticket Liberte day pass is available at information centers. The Syndicat d’initiative has a metro maps which give the different timetables for the subway. City busses normally run 5am-9pm (a few until midnight). Funiculars travel between pl. St Jean and the top of Fourvière until 10pm.

Lyon Metro and Tram Map:

 

Orientation to the City & Sites

While strolling you will discover the city and its historical sites. In 1998 Vieux-Lyon was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the largest in existence. Cultural and historic attractions can be found almost everywhere, including the Fourviere hill, Vieux-Lyon, the slopes of the Croix-Rousse and the town center known as the Presqu’ île. The Gadagne Museum, or Historical Museum of Lyon, International Puppet Museum, Fabrics Museum and the Film Museum of The Lumiere brothers, all hold great historical interest.

Vieux-Lyon, a Unesco World Heritage Site:

Located on the top of Fourvière hill, the basilica (accessible by funicular) was constructed between 1872 and 1896, offers a variety of mosaics, stained glass windows and marble. The Fourvière basilica, symbol of the city, houses a pilgrimage on the 8th of September when the municipal aldermen thank the Virgin Mary for sparing the city from the plague in 1643. You can discover the panoramic view of the rooftops of Fourvière from the esplanade by climbing up the 300 steps of the spiral staircase to the observatory tower like the pilgrims do.

View from the Fourvière:

Two Roman theatres, first built 17-15 B.C. are a reminder of the Gallo-Roman civilization in Lyon, ancient Lugdunum. The Roman baths located slightly down the hill and the Museum of Gallo-Roman Civilization retracing the history of the city offer magnificent views onto the Fourvière theatre site.

The Roman Theater:

Le Vieux Lyon made up of the three neighborhoods called Saint-Georges, Saint-Jean and Saint-Paul (the latter existing since the Renaissance) reflect the splendor of the city in the 15th and 16th centuries can be appreciated by walking along the streets covering over 24 hectares on the banks of the Saône river to the foot of the Fourvière hill.

A visit to the Gadagne Museum is of a particular historical interest as it retraces the story of the three puppets Guignol, Gnafron and Madelon, created by Laurent Mourguet in 1808. The International Puppet Museum displays a variety of string marionettes, puppets on sliding bars and stick puppets. The museum is housed in a Renaissance mansion in Vieux-Lyon showing the history of the city from the Middle–Ages by displaying paintings, furniture, ceramics and pewters.

On the Presqu’île Between the Rhône and the Saône, is Place Bellecour, formerly called Place Royale, with a bronze statue of Louis the XIV which was destroyed during the Revolution and later replaced by Francois Lemot. Place Bellecour is the center of Lyon located in the heart of the main shopping streets leading to the Jacobins (luxury stores) and to, Rue de la République and Rue Victor-Hugo, well-known retail chains.

La place des Terreaux is the heart of Lyon‘s civic life surrounded by its bars, cafés and lively atmosphere. The city hall, built in the 17th century, became the symbolic seat of power and the heart of public life. The square was restyled in 1994 by architect Christian Drevet and artist Daniel Buren and is ornamented by the Bartholdi fountain sculpted in 1889 by the same man responsible for the Statue of Liberty in New York. The beautiful fountain in the center and the 69 water jets are enchanced at night, when they are illuminated. The Terreaux quarter contains several monuments such as: Opéra de Lyon, Palais Saint-Pierre (which houses Lyon’s Musée des Beaux – Arts) and nears the famous Rue Sainte Catherine known for its many pubs.
The Museum of Fabrics, linked to the silk industry, retraces the history of weaving and the use of textiles for the decorative purposes. The museum devotes several of its rooms to the history of Lyon silk since the Renaissance and displays Persian carpets, silks from Spain and all kinds of other embroidery and lace.

The city of Lyon offers a world of fantasy through its optical illusion paintings called trompe l’oeil. There are a total of 150 painted walls and frescos. Check out the famous Tony Garnier Urban Museum depicting the people of Lyon.

The Croix-Rousse an old quarter dating from the early 19th century offers beautiful panoramas of Lyon. The hill’s houses are know for their high-ceilings which accommodated the very tall modern Jacquard looms. The Jacquard weaving style was created by a Lyon man named Joseph-Marie Jacquard at the very start of that century. The slopes and plateau of the Croix-Rousse hosted the silk-weavers (Canuts) and was the stage for an episode of the history of socialism, the revolt of Lyon silkworkers.

Dozen of convents on the Croix–Rousse Hill were reconverted into workshops for the Canuts and as the workers defended a decent price for their production they broke out in two revolts in 1831 and 1834, they were the first revolts of the “working classes” and were studied by Karl Marx and other nineteenth-century luminaries. In the 1850s, 90,000 people lived on the silk industry after Napoléon III had made silk a must in the Courts of Europe.

The traboules (ancient passages) guide you through the interior of the houses which served in the past as covered ways for carrying silk safely through the city. They take you to the old quarters of Lyon, Croix-Rousse and Mercière –St.Antoine.

The Film Museum of The Villa Lumière can be reached by métro Mon plaisir/Lumière in the 8th arrondissement. The museum provides the opportunity to learn about the inventions of Auguste and Louis Lumière and the world’s first cinema film projection. Villa Lumière was built in 1901 by Antoine Lumière, (father of Auguste & Louis) and is where the Lumière Institute has made its home, offering a wide range of films shown in its own cinema hall.

With its 105 hectares Tête d’Or Park welcomes you as a peaceful and residential area of the city. The park houses a botanical garden with 760 varieties of plants and many greenhouses, a jardin zoologique (zoo) with 800 animals, rose garden, lake, bicycle arena, roller skating zone and long lawns on which you can admire 8,258 trees, some of which are bicentennials.

Map of downtown Lyon:

 

Visitor Information

The Visitor Center of Lyon is a great source for information on the city. It is located in the center of town on the Place Bellecour, 2ème arrondissement: 04-72-77-69-09. They have maps and guides with museum listings. The Center organizes excellent city tours in French and English during the summer that explore everything from the traboules of Vieux Lyon to a great mosque. The Lyon City card allows unlimited public transportation and admissions to the 14 biggest museums: Fine Arts and Museum of Decorative Arts, Museum of Fabrics and Museum of Decorative Art, The Lyon History Museum and International Puppet Museum, guided tours, valid for 1, 2 or 3 days and boat tours for 15€ one day and 25€ for two days. The Office is open May-Oct. M-Sat. 9 am- 7 pm Sunday 10 am- 7 pm.

Food

Lyon is famous for its Bouchons. The term bouchon dates back to The Middle Ages, restaurants with Bouchon in their name were built only in the nineteenth century. Bouchons are traditionally workers’ restaurants, originating from the silk workers--named canuts--of the Croix-Rousse district. Bouchons do not have the reputation of being fancy restaurants though they offer a wide variety of copious meals, among which: the famous pâté aux foies de volailles, quenelle de brochet, sauce nantua, cervelle de canut. Petit detail, Bouchons offer a convivial atmosphere, customers sit elbow to elbow with a glass pot, the quintessential Lyon container filled with local wine. Gratuities should be left at restaurants and cafés (unless included in the bill). Most people tip a Euro or so with especially good services being rewarded with a 5-10% gratuity.

Glossary for the bouchons:

  • pâté aux foies de volaille or chicken liver paté,
  • quenelle: crumbled pike mixed into a flour and butter dough, in the shape of a sausage, poached and baked in the oven so as to give it light brown.
  • quenelle de brochet: quenelle served with a crayfish-butter béchamel
    cervelle de canut, literary: “silkworker’s brain” is cream cheese beaten with herbs, garlic and shallots.
  • sauce nantua: a crayfish-butter béchamel.

    A typical Bouchon meal with a “pot” of Rhône wine: